Qanadin wrote:So I have a question for you Penguin. When using your controller how do you have it set so that you don't have to always have to hold what gear you are in.? When I tried it was forcing me to hold the gear I wanted to use while I was attempting to drive.

Jun 26, 2005  The drivers are built into the OS, so if Logitech devices work on OS X (which they do!), then every game that uses HID support will work fine. Certainly my Logitech Rumblepad 2 works fine with every game that has HID support, which is not a huge number.

I currently use a PS3 controller, for which I don't use a full manual gearing, but would like to. If you want use h-shifter setting (with clutch axis), you can still shift by buttons. As real shift happens only if you have clutch fully disconected, you can shift this way: pressing button, disconnecting clutch, connecting clutch and then you can release the button. Even if you do not hold gear button as long as you do not disconnect clutch again gearbox won't shift to neutral. I use a Logitech Cordless Rumblepad 2 setup for a sequential shifting without using a clutch. I play with force feedback turned off to save on battery life. My 'Steering Sensitivity' is just below half and the 'Steering Non-Linearity' is at full.

I also have my 'Steering Deadzone' set all the way down. This is as twitchy as I can stand it for driving but it can still make some sharp intersection turns a pain. As with all controllers backing can be somewhat of a pain because you can never tell exactly how far the wheel is turning until you move the truck. Current Controller Setup: 1&2: Shift up/down 3&4: retarder increase/decrease 5&6: left/right blinkers 7&8: brake/accelerate 9&10: map/enter key D-pad: up: lights down: wipers left: lean-out camera right: interior look right Left stick: X-axis: steer Y-axis: accelerate/brake Button: Interior Camera Right stick: Z-axis: head look left-right Z-rotate: head look up-down Button: cruise.

Maybe some of you remember my homemade gamepad with steering wheel. In that very first attempt I opened my rumblepad and built in a 270° potentiometer which allowed turning 135° to left and same to right. For me that was not satisfying.

My idea was a 3-turn potentiometer but it was too hard to get (a cheap) one. Nevertheless I got a used 5-turn poti which for me was acceptable 'cause old trucks have had - as I believe - 5 turns (1800°) in total: Two and a half in each direction.

But I was sceptical if there was enough space in the gamepad case to take such a big poti. A few weeks ago finally I gave it a try and after finishing I have to admit it was a bit tricky. Another zero in the system trailer 2013.

But it works! The visual impression on the pics is that of a prototype. With more efforts it could look better. For me it was just an experiment so my aim wasn't perfect appearance.

How does it feel? Well, steering is quite smooth, but it's not perfect.

Slight movements could be a bit finer. And of course turning the wheel can't be synchronous with the wheel on the screen 'cause the ETS2 trucks simulate 900° in total. Finally I have to add that the steering has - of course - no force feedback, that means turning has nearly no physical resistance. I can compare it with a force feedback steering wheel which is out of power. In the following some pics. P.S.: Please don't see this thread as any kind of instruction - it's just a report.

And if you'd like to see a video of such an old truck where the driver is turning the wheel as hell (watch from point 4:40). Hi ppl following the advice given in this forum I lashed out and got a Logitech rumble pad ( F310) and have got to admit am pretty impressed so far still getting the hang of parking the trailer and oversteer suspect it's a case of trial and error couldn't get my Xbox controller to work as I have the wireless variety and am not going to fork out $70 odd dollars when the gamepad is only $19! I find it very convenient to use the game pad for the aforementioned reasons so once again thanks all. Regards Adrian.

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